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New York Fashion Week is the first occasion in the market’s conventional fashion month schedule. Also, therefore it usually begins the period’s round-up of fads (though recently, Copenhagen Fashion Week has become its bellwether, in August). London, Milan, and Paris Fashion Weeks add on, giving more instructions to the season and an extra comprehensive offering for buyers and sellers.
The trend: the grandad tank
Where we’ve seen it:
PH5, Our Legacy, Bevza
The trend: pleats
Where we’ve seen it:
3.1 Phillip Lim, Adam Lippes, Bevza
The trend: grunge redux
Where we’ve seen it:
DSquared2, Our Legacy, LRS
The trend: new shapes in knitwear
Where we’ve seen it:
Gabriela Hearst, Ulla Johnson, Bevza
What you need to know:
About that knitted dress that you’ve been living in this winter… it’ll still be a wardrobe mainstay this time next year, too. If you’re not already a convert to the cult of full-length sweater dressing, Ulla Johnson and Bevza’s ankle-grazing yarns should prove persuasive. Meanwhile, Gabriela Hearst just put a wholeheartedly artisanal spin on the WFH blanket wrap with an eco-attuned collection inspired by creative polymath Hildegard of Bingen, an 11th-century German saint; who “believed in ‘green power.’”
The trend: shirt suiting
Where we’ve seen it:
Proenza Schouler, Bevza, Gabriela Hearst
What you need to know:
Let’s rephrase this sub-head as ‘what you already know,’ which is: none of us miss restrictive corporate dress codes in the form of rigid suiting. However, easy-going tailoring that is resolutely laid-back arrived at NYFW in the condition of shirt suiting. Flick through Proenza Schouler’s FW21 collection, and you’ll see precisely why designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are so beloved by Ella Emhoff, Meadow Walker, and nearly every fashion editor from Paris to Sydney. As Vogue’s Nicole Phelps puts it, “they haven’t lost touch with their cool kid bona fides” — which means plenty of zero-effort chic pieces that we want to wear now.
