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As has been the case in today’s eye-centered beauty landscape, there was no shortage of unexpected takes on pitch-black and brightly colored eyeliner. Among the most standout were the punk-leaning, Siouxsie Sioux–worthy designs: See Chloé’s surf-punk slashes, Dior’s razor-sharp double liner, Balenciaga’s jagged cyber-goth flicks, and, of course, the different exaggerated spiky shapes at Valentino. The pro tip to keep in mind? “The liner should be kept as horizontal as possible,” says Hannah Murray, the pro behind Chloé’s designs. “It shouldn’t be angled upward, as this doesn’t feel punk.”
Lips That Shine
There’s no limit on shine and texture when it comes to lips this season. The most sumptuous take on this notion came courtesy of the Acne show, where Peter Philips embellished pale peach pouts with layers upon layers of holographic sequins. At Giambattista Valli, Isamaya Ffrench topped off coral lips with a clear, high-shine gloss. Lacquered lips also added a dose of translucent shine at Koché and Nina Ricci. The fact remains: Lip gloss is a thing again.
From slightly damp to cinematically drenched, there were an array of wet-look strands on the Paris runways. Embodying the latter were the washed-up-at-sea lengths at Vivienne Westwood, which appeared sopping wet thanks to the prosthetic water droplets that Ffrench scattered throughout. Offering up a more pared-back, shower-fresh take were artfully rustled, gel-slicked lengths at Chloé, Lanvin, and Miu Miu. In that sense, a hint of shiny, sculpting product goes a long way.
Fantasy Dye Jobs
Real or not, a shocking dye job will always be a thrill on the runway. One of the week’s most talked-about moments was the display of choppy wigs at Loewe, which hair legend Guido Palau brought to life in collaboration with Blanche Milano’s Davide. Cast in color-matched-to-the-collection shades like peachy pink, deep turquoise, and amethyst purple, they were designed to be an accessory in and of themselves. Directional takes on fantasy color also turned up at Dries Van Noten, with its range of woven-through, graphic-printed neon wefts, and Valentino, where one model’s fluorescent lilac waves dazzled showgoers.
Of course, the drama of Paris Fashion Week wouldn’t be complete without some surrealist glamour. One of the most mind-bending moments was Givenchy’s take on exaggerated lashes, with winglike feathered fringe placed along the bottom outer corners of the eyes. Then there was the Kenneth Ize show, where makeup artist Fara Homidi subverted traditional ideas of the face as a canvas by painting one model’s nose metallic gold; the gilded statement as striking—and head swiveling—as a piece of surrealist jewelry. And on that note, there was, of course, Schiaparelli’s signature elongated gold-plated talons.